Gouache is a water-based medium, closely related to watercolour with which it can be mixed. It is much misunderstood and misused but is a most exciting and versatile medium the "basics" of which are quite easily mastered.
This article is based on one I wrote in 1991 when I lived in
1. Introduction to Painting in Gouache
When I first came to
2. Painting Using Gouache in Two Different Environments
I brought with me to
I work mostly on site in front of the landscape, a practice which presents problems I did not meet in
3. Oil or Gouache ?
I work in two media, oil and gouache. However, there are times when oil painting is impractical. Perhaps a landscape is too remote or unsettled weather makes a long painting session impossible. Gouache is ideal in these circumstances. There is less equipment to carry, and since gouache dries quickly, there is not the problem of transporting a wet painting. Gouache is ideal for recording the fleeting effects of light shimmering on the sea and the wistful skies above. Its wide colour and textural range, much wider than that offered by watercolour, can be readily explored in front of the landscape. A gouache painting can be worked at for any length of time, varying from the essential speed required in capturing sky effects through to the meticulous detail of foreground rock formations, grasses and wild flowers. Gouache paintings completed on site become records of intense sessions of work, capable of being taken back to the studio to exist in their own right or to become resources of ideas for larger-scale studio canvases. The versatility of gouache makes it an ideal medium for working in the rugged
The site chosen for the painting is a view across the bays of the dormant volcano Rangitoto which dominates
4. The Stages of How to Paint Using Gouache

1. I use a 300gsm Arches rough cotton watercolour paper and brushes ranging from a no 3 for detailed work through to a one inch for broad colour washes.
Colours used are the Art Spectrum and Winsor & Newton gouache. I immerse the paper in water for about 20 minutes and then allow the excess water to dry on a flat surface between clean towels. The paper is fixed to a piece of board with masking tape all round and a staple in each corner (see above).

2. A one inch brush is used to place a wash of sky colour across the paper. This is done quickly on the damp paper and allowed to dry. Upon this wash is superimposed the structure of Rangitoto. At this stage the main compositional elements are established. Work is done quickly and allowed to dry (see above).

3. The area of the sea and the foreground are brushed in next. It is always a relief to cover the white paper! More work is done on Rangitoto including the texture of the distant bush which covers the island (see above).

4. At this stage I apply foreground detail. This is established with a fine brush. Once I have achieved the correct balance I have completed the compositional structure (see above).

5. Work continues on the sky and cloud structures and foreground detail. There is no set pattern to this. If a cloud formation moves into the picture whilst work is in progress, I will include this if appropriate, whilst continuing to build foreground detail and the textural qualities of the sea. In effect, work continues on the whole picture area (see above).

6. I continue with the foreground forms of the pohutukawa trees. These beautiful evergreen trees catch the sun and produce wonderful sculptural forms. Gouache is an ideal medium for building these forms as the light changes and catches each leaf. The colour is mixed, allowed to become sticky in the palette and dragged across the paper with a damp brush. The paint is picked up by the texture of the paper and the previous layers of paint. This is exciting, fast work, particularly if done under a strong sun when the paint dries very quickly (see above).

7. The painting is nearing completion. Much effort has been placed into building the sky and the sculptural forms of the pohutakawa trees (see above).

8. The grasses in the foreground are 'drawn' in with thin colour and a small brush. These give additional depth to the painting and provide a framework for the distant forms (see above).

9. The completed painting could now exist in its own right or become the basis for a larger studio painting (see above).